(Some Dog Scouts in their
uniforms at Dog Scout Camp)
All about the Dog
Scout Test
The Dog Scouts do not have
a pledge, or a salute or secret handshake. They do, however, have a
set of "laws." Dog parents should, whenever possible, try to
carry out the Dog Scout laws, and exemplify a good canine citizen
and responsible parent. Note how the certification items below
relate to the Dog Scout laws.
Passing all the
certification requirements will qualify your dog to wear the DSA
bandanna, get the title of DSA after his/her name and
represent DSA in public. In Troop 107, dogs are not
required to pass the test to attend meetings or 'members only'
events like the weekly walks or troop parties. Dogs DO need to
have passed the Dog Scout test to participate at any
public activity where the dogs will be representing DSA and the
troop (like fundraisers, booths and parades.) Before
passing the certification, your dog can be called a 'troop member'
or a Cadet Scout if you have paid the $5 record keeping fee to DSA
to be recorded as a Cadet Scout and to get the collar tag.
After passing, he/she can be called a 'Dog Scout'. Only when
you and your dog complete all the requirements of the Dog Scout
test for a Scoutmaster to evaluate, do they earn the title of Dog
Scout.
The Dog
Scout certifications are given frequently, but not on a walk-in
basis. The Scoutmaster needs to have observed your dog on at
least three different occasions prior to the dog being tested.
To become a full fledged Dog Scout (with the title of DSA) and to
wear the red, official Dog Scout bandanna/uniform, the Dog
Scout certification needs to be passed by you and your
dog. This can be done after a troop meeting when
the Scoutmaster is doing certifications or at Dog Scout Camp in
Michigan or by submitting a video
of you and your dog completing the requirements. Dog Scout
tests can only be evaluated by a certified
Scoutmaster. The components of the certification do not have
to all be completed at one time, but all components need to be
passed within a 6 month time-frame. In other words, you can
show the Scoutmaster that your dog has basic obedience at one check
out and show the 'leave-it' later when you have had more time to
practice it.
Human
component:
In troop 107, to get the DSA title, the parent needs to attend
the 3 hour Dog Scout class at least once. Multiple attendance
sessions are not needed if you have more than one dog. This
class is offered by the troop leader once or twice a year as
needed. As an alternative, you can submit the answers to the
written handler's test.
FEES: There is a processing
and materials fee ($35) for the DSA certification that is sent
in with the proper forms when all steps are completed.
The tester must have met the dog/handler on at least 3 separate
occasions prior to the test day and directly receives $5 of the
certification fee when the dog and handler complete the
certification. So actually $30 goes to DSA with the
paperwork.
Other
Badges:
Your dog must have the title of Dog Scout prior to being certified
for any of the specialty badges. This doesn't mean your dog
cannot work on learning these specialty behaviors till he's a scout,
you just can't send in certification forms until then. There
are fees for each badge certification and only certified Dog Scout
Evaluators can do the testing. Chris Puls, the troop leader for
Troop 107, is certified to give the tests for the following
badges (as of 6-1-07): The Dog Scout test, All 5 Agility levels,
Puppy Paddler, Beach Buddy, Boating Safety,
Backpacking, Hiking, Biking, All 3 Letterboxing levels, All 3
Geocaching levels, Art, Band, IMPROV, Tricks, Manners, Disaster
Preparation, PhoDOGraphy, Sign Language, Retrieve, Panhandling,
Scent Discrimination, Flyball, Scent Hurdle Racing, Frisbee, Water
racing, Earthdog, First Aid, Travel Safety, Rally Obedience
and Grooming. Cindy Thomson is certified to give the tests for
DSA, Overnight camping and backpacking. Dianne Coleman is
certified to give the test for backpacking. To see the badge
requirements, visit: http://www.DogScouts.org/handbook
TRAINING: The other pages of this
site include "How-to" positive training information for each of the
dog's requirements. If you need help teaching your dog any of
the behaviors, just ask the Scoutmaster. Positive training methods
are required.
_______________________________________________________________________
Below are the things you and your dog need to know or do to
pass the DSA certification
________________________________________________________________________
The items in
black
are things that are covered in a "Dog Scout Class" given 1 or 2 times per
year for anyone that is interested. Your attendance at a class
or the submission of the written test is required before you
can send in your dog's badge forms to DSA headquarters,
but once your dog passes their portion of the test, and the
Scoutmaster is satisfied with your handling skills, they will be
allowed on public outings with the troop to represent DSA.
The items
in red are the dog's requirements
and can be shown to the Scoutmaster any time she is doing
certifications.
- Dog
is friendly and comfortable with strangers
- Parent manages dog's environment
and keeps dog out of trouble.
- Parent has mastered the phrase
"Please keep your dog back" and knows when and why it is used.
- Parent knows how to encourage
proper greeting behavior between dogs
- Dog
is friendly and comfortable with other dogs (on and off
lead)
- Parent knows proper leash handling
techniques to prevent aggression.
- Parent understands that aggressive
displays are normal dog "language", but also understands how to
let the dog make other choices (deference behavior, etc.)
- Parent understands the use of
calming signals
- Parent can have the dog perform a "Leave it" walk-by
with tempting food.
- Parent can have the dog perform a "Leave it"
with another animal (and with another
dog).
- Parent can give reasons why the "leave
it" cue is so important.
- Parent understands the value of
letting the dog choose, using indirect access exercises.
- Dog
can demonstrate the ability to remain in 'heel' position on a
loose leash through a heeling pattern.
- Dog
can sit when parent stops while heeling.
- Dog
will sit on parent's cue
- Dog
will lie down on parent's cue
- Dog
will come when called
- Dog
will stay in either a sit or down position while parent walks
away (in sight) and interacts briefly with another
human.
- At least 2 plastic bags are carried by
the parent at all times
- Parent consistently practices
responsibility and picks up dog's waste and can show how clean up
is done.
- Parent knows the Dog Scout laws
and promises to uphold them.
________________________________________________________________
The following are the
Scoutmaster guidelines for the test. This is what is allowed
(and not allowed) during the certification and for each
step:
The use of head collars or
prong collars during the certification is strongly discouraged. Choke chains are not
allowed. Limited slip
collars that are properly adjusted are allowed. Have
the parent try the requirements without these training aids (on
a standard collar.)
The parent should be working on obtaining the dog’s
compliance without the need of these aids.
Additional
cues are permitted but, where noted, are seen as a need for further
training (see leave it.)
To pass each requirement, a
dog must perform as directed by his parent. No food or other reward
items are permitted on the parent or in the immediate area
where the certification is taking place. The dog may be
rewarded between exercises and the use of rewards during
training is encouraged. You are allowed to praise the
dog and use encouraging words during the testing.
To become a Dog Scout,
each parent and dog must pass various requirements that will
show that the parent has taught the dog a modicum of obedience
and that the scout’s companion is a responsible dog parent. The parent must do a good
job of controlling the dog, and the dog must display a sound
temperament. This is a
pass/fail certification, based on performance that is either
acceptable or unacceptable.
However, if the dog/parent team cannot complete a certain
requirement, they may try again after some practice or additional
training. The
certification will be held after the Scoutmaster has had several
days (at least three) to observe the dog interacting with people and
other dogs, and after the parent has received training on how
to calm his dog and prevent aggression.
1. FRIENDLY WITH PEOPLE
(DOG
SCOUT LAW #1: My dog must be safe with people
and
other dogs.)
A friendly stranger will
greet the parent and dog; the kind of stranger you might meet
on the street. He or
she will bend down and talk sweetly to your dog, and try to pet your
dog.
To pass, the dog must
accept or remain neutral to the stranger’s advances. A dog that shows undue panic
or unfriendliness with body posture, vocalizations or aggressive
displays is not suitable to take in public near other people.
This is NOT a test of the
dog’s manners (like with CGC) but a polite greeting is nice.
The dog will not fail for jumping on the greeting person in a
friendly way. The sole
purpose of this test is to weed out potential fear biters or
untrustworthy dogs.
Scoutmaster
Note:
You can be the friendly stranger, or you can designate a friendly
stranger. Choose an
assistant for this who knows how to read dogs, and knows how to
approach dogs. If no
such individual exists in your group of assistants, you must SHOW
the assistant PRECISELY how to behave, based on your knowledge of
dog behavior, calming signals and dog social signals. If you are being evaluated
for advancement in Scoutmaster Training, you will be evaluated on
how and what you instruct your assistant to do.
Here are some pointers for
the friendly stranger:
Have the assistant approach
obliquely (from an angle, not a direct front approach), and speak
directly to the parent, before looking at the dog.
A good thing for the
stranger to say is “Hi!
What a pretty dog, what’s his name?” Hearing the
friendly voice will help put the dog at ease.
The
assistant should wait until the parent talks back to him before
looking at the dog.
The dog will base his
reaction on the parent’s reaction. The stranger knows that if
he can get the parent to speak FIRST, the dog will see that the
stranger is not a threat.
After the parent
speaks the dog’s name, and shakes the hand of the friendly stranger
in a pleasant way, the stranger can move his attention to the
dog.
Now that he knows the dog’s
name, he can say, “Oh, Sparky!
What a pretty dog you are! Are you a nice puppy? Can I pet you?”
At this time, if the
stranger senses any nervous “vibes” from the dog, he can turn
sideways, and squat down (calming signals), not looking the dog
in the eye.
Stranger should ask
the parent for permission to pet the dog (to get
the parent to speak some more...). Then the stranger can offer
to stroke the dog under the chin, and maybe on the shoulder.
Some
dogs are not shy or fearful—they just don’t appreciate being mauled
by strangers. Use your
judgment as to whether the dog can take the pressure or not. You should know, from having
been around this dog for a while.
Be prepared to STOP your
assistant from doing something foolish or invasive if the dog looks
like he is not up for a visit.
The dog should at least tolerate the visit and be willing to
approach the person and allow contact.
Additional
Info:
Dog
should accept the presence and touch of a friendly stranger. This requirement is to make
sure a dog is safe to greet a friendly stranger. We’re not testing the
dog’s ability to control his exuberance with obedience—we’re testing
his or her inherent tendency to be friendly with humans and not to
bite them or run from them.
Dog does not have to be
“overly friendly” and Scoutmaster must realize that some dogs are
standoffish.
“Stranger” should be well
skilled in dog communication and handling and know how to use
calming signals, if needed.
The stranger should not try
to touch a dog that has not touched him/her first (allow the dog to
approach.) Remain as
non-threatening as possible.
The stranger should not
make eye contact with the dog, and should ask the parent the
dog’s name as he or she approaches.
Dog must not be overly
fearful (refusing to allow contact with the stranger at all, or
urinating from fear and not just excitement or a submissive
temperament.)
Dog must not be aggressive
(trying to ward off the stranger’s approach with threat
displays.)
Allowable:
The smart end of the leash
can tell the tester his or her dog’s name, and any other hints that
would make the dog more receptive to handling, and would be
well-advised to speak to the stranger first, to allow the dog to see
that the parent is friendly toward the stranger,
too.
The parent can also give
the dog cues, like “go say ‘Hi’”, to let them know it is ok to
approach the person.
The dog can “woof” or alarm
bark as in, “who’s that?” but should immediately calm down when they
see it’s a “friend.”
Dog can be in any position
for this test, and does not have to maintain a stay or
anything.
Not
Allowable:
Use of loud or threatening
voice to intimidate the dog
Leash corrections (jerks on
the leash)
Rough handling of
dog
Physically forcing the dog
to make contact with the stranger.
Any uncontrolled and/or
unprovoked aggression toward the stranger
Any shy or fearful reaction
to the stranger from which the dog will not recover and
again approach the stranger.
2. SAFE AROUND OTHER DOGS
(DOG SCOUT LAW #1: My dog
must be safe with people and other
dogs.)
This part of the test makes
sure that the dogs are not unjustly reactive when they are near
other dogs. You can
check this by having several parents stand together with their dogs
on loose leads. The
dogs should not be under any 'cue', but rather simulate meeting and
talking to these other people as if you had just met up in
public. Parents will be
expected to keep their dog from being a pest to any other dog and
the parent should not ignore any ‘pre-fight’ body
language.
You should also
observe the dog with other dogs while off-lead in a safe
and contained area with or without the parents. Good area for this
are a dog park or at a Dog Daycare. If these are not
available, any fenced area where the dogs are allowed to be will
work.
To pass, the dog must not
show any unwarranted aggression toward passive other dogs. Some growling would be
acceptable if pestered by another dog. It’s OK for a dog to say to
another dog, “Leave me alone!” Overly friendly or assertive
dogs should be prevented from pawing, mounting or “bullying” other
dogs, so that those dogs are not forced to reply with a snarl, which
could escalate to something else. These displays do not
necessarily mean a dog is inherently aggressive. The behavior of the dog in
its interactions with other dogs all week at camp or while being
observed by the Scoutmaster over the three-day (or more) period
prior to the certification will also be taken into
consideration. Dog
Scouts of America reserves the right to refuse to certify any
handler and dog based on these observations. Titles can also be revoked
if the dog's temperament changes for the worse and the parent does
not do their best to prevent the dog from feeling the need to show
an aggressive display.
Keep in mind that if your dog is known to be a Dog Scout,
their behavior (and yours) is a reflection on the organization. Scoutmasters should keep
this in mind when determining if the dog is a good candidate for the
Dog Scout title.
Scoutmaster
Note:
Choose a location where none of the dogs are likely to act
“territorial.” Choose
other dogs that are “socially adept.” This doesn’t mean they
necessarily have to be interactive and playful, but the dogs
should be good at reading and giving appropriate body language
signals. They can be
neutral toward the other dogs, and ignore the other dogs, which is
actually a good way to judge the reactivity of the dog(s) being
certified. If you have
observed 'issues' in a dog prior to the certification, you should
advise the dog's parent to get some remedial training to work
out the dog's (or parent's) issues. You are not obligated to put
your dog in a situation with strange dogs of unknown temperament or
to provide the remedial training if you don’t feel qualified. This is one very important
reason why we do not do “walk-in” tests. Dogs do not have to like all
other dogs, but they should tolerate their presence without an
excessive display. Dogs
being tested or observed should not show excessive fear about being
around other dogs.
Additional
Info:
This
requirement is to make sure a dog is safe around other friendly dogs
and will be seen as a good ambassador.
Dog must be observed having
normal interactions with other dogs
Dog should show an
understanding of dog-to-dog communication and social
signals
If dog lacks communication
skills, owner can install various behaviors to help the dog avoid
confrontations
Scoutmasters should make
sure that none of the dogs that are together try to do anything that
would incite a riot or an aggressive move by one of the other
dogs
The smart end of the leash
should know when it is inappropriate to let his or her dog play with
other dogs (such as a timid dog in with 2 or more assertive dogs
that are bullying, when the dog is overly excited/stimulated/ in
lizard brain, if there are guarding issues that could cause problems
(remove object being guarded if possible.)
Allowable:
A dog can growl or snap at
another dog that is invading the dog’s personal space, if it is
interpreted merely as a “please get back” signal
Parent should use own
good judgment as to which dogs he or she wishes to allow his or her
dog to interact with.
The dog can pass this
portion of the criteria without going off the leash, if deemed
appropriate for the certification, but the dog must have had access
to other dogs on a loose leash (and prove that he or she will show
appropriate behavior in normal situations)
Not
Allowable:
Use of loud or threatening
voice to intimidate the dog
Leash Corrections
(jerks)
Rough handling of
dog
A dog must not make an
aggressive move toward any other dog(s) that was unprovoked (see
allowable)
A dog must not try to “lock
on” with offensive eye contact with other dogs
The parent must not be
intimidating the dog so that he will not attack the other dogs (the
dog has to be nice on his own)
NOTE: The Scoutmaster reserves the
right to not pass any dog that displays any signals, eye contact or
other form of communication that would lead the Scoutmaster to
believe the dog may be ready to bite. The certification does not
have to proceed with any dog if there is any question as to whether
it will be friendly or not.
3. WELL MANNERED
(DOG SCOUT LAW #2- My dog
must be well mannered, so that he or she will be accepted in public
places. I understand
and accept responsibility for teaching my dog proper manners using
non-abusive methods like positive reinforcement
training)
The dog's
parent must demonstrate that he or she has taught the dog to
perform certain basic obedience skills. The parent will demonstrate
the following skills: walk at heel, sit and lie down on cue, stay,
and come when called.
WALK
AT HEEL:
This exercise is more of a
Novice level “Heel on Leash” than a Canine Good Citizen (CGC) walk
on a loose leash. The
dog has to have been trained to heel. He must also sit when the
handler stops (additional cues for the sit are permitted.) However, it is not judged
like a Novice heeling pattern.
Changes of pace and figure 8’s are not necessary, but a right
and left turn and an about turn (U-turn) are suggested to get the
basic idea of how well the dog walks on a leash. Multiple cues are
allowed. It doesn’t
hurt to have this demonstrated twice to be sure the first time was
not a “fluke.”
Additional
Info:
Heeling is on leash that
should remain loose throughout the exercise (no flexis/retractables
and no guiding, dragging or helping the dog with the leash.) Heeling off leash can be
demonstrated if preferred.
Performance does not have
to be “obedience trial” caliber, but is much more than a simple
CGC-like performance (it must be real heeling with
full sits at the stops)
Pattern is up to the
evaluator, but should demonstrate that the dog can heel when turns
in both directions are made, and will stop and sit when the
parent stops (include TWO sits, not including the start and end
point, please)
Leash needs to stay loose
for at least 95% of this exercise. Brief tightening of the leash BY
THE DOG is allowed but should only happen on about 5% of the whole
pattern.
Allowable:
Multiple cues and/or
signals to heel, and/or to sit at the stop
Talking to the dog
encouragingly
Repeating an exercise or a
portion of an exercise (will need to show 3 correct performances to
make up for each incorrect performance on the day of the
attempt)
Not
Allowable:
Use of food or pretending
to have food (or other items) so the dog
will obey
Use of loud or threatening
voice to intimidate dog
Leash corrections
(jerks)
Rough handling of the
dog
Whining (the handler) -- If
the DOG is whining, you need to find out why
Touching the dog’s body or
leash to force or “hint” the dog into position
Choke Chains or improperly
fitted (too tight) limited slip collars.
Training aids other than
the parent’s voice and leash/collar. No lures or aids for
guiding the dog (leash around the dog’s waist or use of dowel
rods.)
Discouraged:
Head halters-- we don’t
want to see parents become dependent upon them for
life, though they’re a great training tool.
Prong collars--
some parents must use them for safety if they have weak hands
and a large dog, but again, we don’t want the person/dog to
become dependent on them—we want to see the dog choose to
comply
Excessive barking (dog is
not under control)
Scoutmaster
Notes:
Set up the manners portion of the test so that it is easiest for you
to observe and evaluate.
Some people are not used to following “orders” (as in an
obedience trial), so try to make the pattern for the course “fool
proof.” Either
have them follow along from one cone to the next, or follow a line
on the pavement, or follow along the edge of a paved or carpeted
area. This makes it
easier for the people being tested. Using an “L” shaped pattern
that starts at one end, follows the shape, includes a U-turn and
re-traces the shape will show both a left, right and about
turn.
SIT
AND LIE DOWN ON CUE:
The dog should be able to
assume the position indicated by the parent. Multiple cues are allowed,
but dog must respond to the cue given, and not just fortuitously sit
or lie down because it was bored or tired or guessing which behavior
is being requested.
Having the parent show these behaviors twice each will show
if the dog understands the cue as opposed to having it be an
“accident.”
Additional
Info:
Dog’s elbows must be on the
ground (all the way) for down; butt must be on the ground for
sit. Dogs with medical
or structural issues can get an exemption if performing these
positions is impossible or causes pain.
Allowable:
Multiple cues and/or hand
signals to sit or lie down (within reason)
Repeating an exercise or a
portion of an exercise (will need to show 3 correct performances to
make up for each incorrect performance on the day of the
attempt)
Not
Allowable:
Use of food or pretending
to have food (or other objects or other dogs) so the dog
will obey
Use of loud or threatening
voice to intimidate dog
Leash corrections (jerks)
or tightening of the leash as a cue
Rough handling of
dog
Serendipitous action of
dog, not in response to the cue (dog finally gets tired of
the nagging and lies down or was
guessing)
Whining (the handler) -- If
the DOG is whining, find out why
Touching the dog’s body or
leash to force or “hint” the dog into position.
STAY:
Dog is left in either a sit
or a down position (parent’s choice), as parent walks 20 to 30 feet
away, and mills about or interacts with someone briefly. There is no time
requirement. After
about 10 to 20 seconds, the dog has shown he understands the concept
of staying put. Parent
should return to the dog.
This exercise should not be combined with come when
called. You may test
several dogs at once on the stay.
Additional
Info:
The
dog needs to remain in the chosen position until the parent gets
back to the dog. Upon
return, the parent does not need to circle the dog into “heel”
position. Leash can stay on or be removed – parent’s
choice.
Allowable:
Non-authoritative
encouragement to stay
(“good stay…”)
Repeating an exercise or a
portion of an exercise (will need to show 3 correct performances to
make up for each incorrect performance on the day of the
attempt)
Parent can choose sit
or down position for his or her own dog
Asking the parents to show
that they have at least two baggies while their dogs are on the stay
or engaging in brief conversation or getting a
handshake.
Not
Allowable:
Use of food or pretending
to have food (or other objects) so the dog
will obey
Use of loud or threatening
voice to intimidate dog
